Skin Inc, April 2023
We are in the golden era for eyebrow transformation. When it comes to eyebrow trends, and the expanding evolution of the artistry of eyebrow shaping, it can be difficult to know which services to add to your own professional arsenal and which to leave to other experts.
Whether you are considering broadening your service offerings or need to know how to guide your customers to other experts, it’s important to know the facts. I’ve enlisted eyebrow masters in their given fields to share insight and clear-up some of the myths associated with the work they provide.
When it comes to trends, the further a fad strays from what is innate to a person’s natural features, bone structure and brow alignment, the quicker the trend will fade.
MYTH: If you do an eyebrow transplant you cannot receive any other form of eyebrow enhancements.
FACT: Permanent eyebrow makeup underneath a transplant helps the transplant look thicker and is often a good adjunct. It is often better to do transplants in combination with pigmenting techniques because a bit of hair over a perfectly recreated eyebrow from pigmentation can be complementary.
Battle of the Brows
With an abundance of cosmetic tattoo variations on the market, it’s enough to make your head spin. Consumers have to sort through endless information on the internet and decide which option is best for them. Jonelle Salzman, founder and artist at The Archery, a cosmetic tattoo facility, helps break it down for us. She shared descriptions of various cosmetic tattoo procedures.
Microblading: The process of inserting pigment into the skin via a sterile handheld tool, which has a tiny blade on the end of it in order to enhance the brow in a way that simulates the appearance of natural hairs.
Powder Brows: Aka ombre brows, this technique of brow tattooing involves using a machine with a cartridge containing a needle or group of needles that injects ink into the skin in a manner that shades in the brow, resembling brow makeup. It can be done very softly or very boldly, or anything in between.
Nano Brows: This new technique of brow tattooing involves using a machine with a cartridge containing a needle (usually one tiny, single needle), that injects ink into the skin in a formation of tiny dots that ultimately create a hair like stroke.
MYTH: Anyone can get microblading.
FACT: Managing guest expectations is the biggest difficulty that I think professionals offering cosmetic tattoo services face. Microblading was the leading trend and buzzword for quite a long time, and as a service, it is really only suitable for maybe 20% to 30% of skin types we see. Microblading is best for clients who have normal to slightly dry, non-reactive skin with small pores. Nano or powder brows are best for anyone with sensitive, oily skin, rosacea, or acne-prone skin.
MYTH: Cosmetic tattoo procedures are semi-permanent.
FACT: One very common misconception is that microblading, or other forms of cosmetic brow tattooing are “semi-permanent” and not “permanent.” This is not true. Anytime you put ink inside of the skin, it has the potential to stay there forever. Your brows will need maintenance after a certain amount of time. We never tell our clients that we can guarantee their brows will completely fade away if they choose not to keep up with them. Even if they are very light and barely visible, there will likely always be remnants of ink inside of your brows.
MYTH: Powder brows are a less natural approach to cosmetic tattoos.
FACT: Another common misconception is that microblading is the most natural form of cosmetic tattooing and that powder brows will look unnatural. Powder brows are customizable and can be done ultra softly to give just the slightest wash of color behind the natural hairs to pull together the brow shape without being intense. Microblading can look natural when done on the right skin type.
Brow Lamination: With the tools available to achieve beautiful full brows, we may want to recommend a brow lamination service to pull the entire look together. Chrissie Paraschos, lead Refectocil trainer for Refectocil, CBON North America, broke it all down. Brow lamination is basically a perm for your brows, as it gives them a set, uniform shape for an extended period of time. A setting lotion helps brow hair stay brushed and lifted upward for about four to six weeks. You can give your clients the brows they have always wanted in less than an hour.
MYTH: Brow lamination is harmful for my skin and brow hair.
FACT: When done correctly, the treatment is completely safe for both the brows and the skin. Make sure you don’t over treat the area during the procedure. If you do not follow the correct timing of each solution in the manufacturer’s instructions, this can lead to the brow hairs becoming over processed and potentially dry.
During the application process, make sure you’re careful and avoid any solution dripping into the eyes. Always do a patch test before beginning the treatment. This will help measure allergic reactions from the onset, avoiding any side effects later.
MYTH: My brow hair will curl up or stick out.
FACT: Thanks to the chemicals in the neutralizer solutions, the process of brow lamination has the hairs looking longer and flattened. The hairs also become flexible after treatment, so you can taper them together to achieve a clean shape without worrying about that one oddly stuck out hair. Professionals consider brow lamination a great service for curly, unruly, and stubborn brows.
MYTH: My brows will be big and bushy every day, lasting a long time.
FACT: Even though brow lamination lasts four to six weeks, it’s not a permanent makeup treatment. The wet and glossy initial look of laminated brows is not going to last forever. After the first 24 hours, the brows hairs will settle into their new shape and look soft and natural.
Many, if not all of these treatments provide ample opportunity to perfect your clients’ eyebrows. Stay informed and learn more about the importance of adequate education, certification, and training, and what to do to course correct when things don’t go as planned.
Article contributed by: Leah Simon-Clarke is a licensed aesthetician and consultant with 24 years of experience in the industry. Her success has been driven by honing her skills in customer service, service innovation, marketing, and public relations. Find Simon- Clarke through Instagram @LeahSimonClarke or LinkedIn by name